Breeding is not always fun and games. There are some grim problems such as those you are facing, but there are ways around even the worst obstacles. You know, I've always thought that it was not so much a wonder that parrots in captivity do things that seem strange to us, as it is that they do anything normal. We simply cannot provide them with even a reasonable facsimile of the environment that they are biologically adapted to inhabit. To my way of thinking, the limited amount of space alone is enough to make them do bizarre things that would be uncharacteristic of a bird in the wild. At the very best, we might provide them with a roomy outdoor flight which might be 8' X 8' X 8' . That might sound big compared to the cages that most parrots occupy but compared to the great outdoors where the sky is the limit, it's easy to see how unnatural their lives in captivity really are.

I believe though that the urge to reproduce is so strong, especially in eclectus, that many parrots are able to overcome all the obstacles that we throw at them and raise families in spite of us. But we must not forget their instincts. And I feel sure that they have good instincts about not producing babies in environments that would not support their survival. Here are some of the reasons that I believe males destroy eggs and chicks: *Their instinct tells them that in their captive environment, there is not a sufficiently large eco-system to provide the foods they need to feed the babies.

*They sometimes can see predator animals in close proximity to their habitats and instinctively feel that the area is unsafe for babies.

*They do not trust people entering their territory. In the wild, they would nest HIGH in a tree that man could not reach without extraordinary effort. In our aviaries, most nestboxes are by necessity hung much too low.

*No style of nestbox is even close to what their instincts would tell them to seek out.

Even if the nestboxes are the proper size, there is no interior soft wood to whittle as there would be in a tree trunk, and therefore, no clean nesting material is available.

*Other circumstances that may not be conducive to successful breeding and nesting:

1. 1. Lighting
2. 2. Length of photo period (especially important in Greys and Amazons)
3. 3. Neighboring parrots (especially other species)
4. 4. Dietary deficiency
5. 5. Difference in breeding readiness

I believe that some cases of males killing babies COULD BE jealousy. It is not at all uncommon for male cats, domestic as well as wild, to kill their own offspring as well as others that they find. Some people speculate that they kill male offspring to eliminate competition but I remember when I was growing up that some "tom cats" often killed all the kittens in a litter. So this behavior in birds is not unique among animals. When a female Eclectus has eggs and later babies in the nest, the male spends nearly all of his time alone.

If the eggs or babies are destroyed, the courtship period follows shortly. In other words, in human terms, by destroying eggs and babies, a male parrot can enjoy a perpetual honeymoon. If he doesn't, his mate disappears into the nestbox for months! I'm sure that it IS possible for females to destroy their own eggs and kill their own babies but I never hear about those cases. In all the cases that I've recorded, it has been the male who is at fault. This probably is due to the strong maternal instinct of the hen.

Some of the measures that we can use to attempt to remedy the problem of egg and chick destruction are:

*The provision of several choices of nestbox. If a pair seems less than enthusiastic about one type of nestbox, give them a choice. I have used Z-boxes, horizontal boxes, and Grandfather boxes (upright rectangle). I prefer the Grandfather box size 12" X 12" X 24" for Eclectus. However, although I've never tried the boot shape box, I believe that it would be another good choice since it would prevent damaged eggs from parent birds diving into the box to escape predators or other disturbances. But whether we use Grandfather or boot shape, this vertical configuration is less conducive to the males going into the box than are the horizontal or Z boxes. It is much easier for the hen to defend the nest against the male when he is entering her territory "upside down". In that position, he is much more vulnerable to her attack than if she is in a horizontal or Z-Box where he can waltz right in and destroy eggs or chicks.

*Hang the nestbox in the highest and least accessible point in the aviary so that the birds can feel safe. Provide a visual barrier of palm fronds, wood, or even a towel or sheet to prevent predator birds, raccoons, 'possums, cats, etc. from being able to see the nestbox.

*Feed a diet that is not only adequate, but OVERabundant. The parents should feel that it is a time of plenty, just as it is during their natural breeding season in the wild. The hatching of chicks is timed to coincide with rains that bring new plant growth or with the season of plenty so we should simulate that as well as we can by overfeeding. They should have more food than they can eat daily, rather than just enough or not quite enough, which could mean starvation for babies.

*I have read of a number of cases of a male destroying eggs and/or killing chicks and in some cases, even inflicting wounds on his mate. When they were moved to another aviary, even right next door, the male seemed to find this more to his liking and became an exemplary parent. Even if we think like a bird, it is sometimes impossible to tell how they might perceive a situation or how they might assess the suitability of an area for raising chicks.

*Minimize interference. It is important to check the nestbox daily so that once there are chicks, we can keep an eye on them to be sure they are being fed and cared for. But this should be done at approximately the same time every day, with a warning such as a tap on the box or a familiar whistle or phrase. Except for feeding and a minimum of cleaning, other intrusions should be kept to a minimum. Certainly no strangers or pets should be allowed to intrude on a breeding pair. They should be able to relax and not be required to be on guard all the time. The problem of displaced aggression could account for some egg and chick destruction. In their fervor to protect them from a perceived danger, they can attack the wrong target and destroy the very thing they are trying to protect.

*Fake eggs do work to break some males of the habit of egg breaking. I have used them successfully and the eggs that I use are marble (I believe) and they are indestructible. I found them in a shop with Asian trinkets. They were decorator eggs but the perfect size for eclectus eggs. They also are white. Actually if I had been able to "order" them, they are exactly what I would have ordered. They were sold along with other sizes and colors of "marble" eggs and the shop owner allowed me to pick out all the white ones. I did have three clutches (six eggs) but I gave four to breeder friends and now I must be very careful not to lose the two remaining ones because they may be irreplaceable and I may need them again someday. I'm always on the lookout for more and will let you know if I ever find them. *As a last resort if you are unable to break the male of his bad habits, there are three choices. 1--The least desirable choice, in my opinion, in pulling and incubating the eggs.

The eggs have a much better chance of hatching if the hen incubates them and the babies are much better off being fed and brooded by the hen than by us. 2-- Another choice is fostering eggs and babies to another hen on the same cycle. This is difficult to time if you have a limited number of pairs. 3--I believe the best choice is separating the pair once laying begins. The sperm can remain viable for five to ten days (at least) in the hen's body, so there is no problem with the second egg being fertile if the pair has recently mated. By denying the male access to the nest, the hen can incubate the eggs and she can and WILL raise the babies without his help. Never underestimate the maternal instinct of a female eclectus. She absolutely does not require the help of the male. However, when I have done this, I have taken over the male's job somewhat and offered food several times a day at the opening of the nestbox. I especially made sure to offer her warm oatmeal first thing in the morning and last thing at night. Scrambled eggs are always appreciated too. Some people are able to arrange it so that the male can feed the female through wire with large openings but cannot get to the nest. Short of this arrangement, confining him to a cage within the aviary works quite well. Some people feel that parenting is a learned behavior in birds and that we must allow them to learn on their first few clutches. Easier said than done, huh? It is always difficult to leave a baby at the mercy of new parents when you know that it is a beautiful creature that could, and should, live for half a century.